PFW SS14: Balenciaga

B A L E N C I A G A..yes the SS14 collection was swiftly executed, classy and sporty streetwear. We did see a glimpse of Wang, mostly in the first few pieces, similar traits from his own SS14 collection shown in NY. What I personally loved was the Baroque reference, I study ArtHistory so I know how much inspiration from the past is essential and makes an appearance in present day fashion, art and music, the bold flower-type patterns were stunning and the dark blue paired with the spring palette clothes are beautiful. Cristobal Balenciaga was also seen in the collection, a rare purity was exhibited laced with an amount of fun and experiment. Molded leather, embroidered with thread and printed swirly floral motifs, these are key signs of innovation where couture and modernism are joined. 

Presentation is key, especially when showing in Paris and the presentation was liberating, the three way mirrors made me fall in love with the pieces even more, a classical feel was attached to this collection. Trends such as high-waisted skirts and tulip-shaped peplum that hug the female form, which express an effortless collection. White and black elegant silk caped tops, present the dressed-up evening looks, cool confidence and effortless edginess is present in this collection...and a round - of - applause to Balenciaga. 

To Ra. 

PFW SS14 : Undercover

Jun Takahashi's, unveiled a brilliant collection, deriving inspiration from the MOD era, which caught my eye and made me so happy. Street trends and tailoring habits have transcending into his collection, classic sharp tailoring is also slapped into his collection and the juxtaposition between the two types of  tailoring has created a truly stunning collection. 

The best features of the collection was the glow in the dark pieces..I mean that is awesome. Six looks are ignited up with LED lights, the pieces have quotes such as "I Am Here I Am Here". An undertone of bondage-esque vibes with appearances of PVC and leather made appearances in this collection. 

Asymmetry was an additional key feature, ribbons tied in bows around necks, the colour palette was great, from block colours to strong accents of red. The tops held bold phrases, a sort of campaign motif, some read SNUG (GUNS backwards) and Silence Yourself. The individual pieces from skinny neck pieces, mint drainpipe trousers, a sort of clean cut wardrobe laced with lovely colours and notions. 

To Ra. 

PRADA SS14

Okay I am a ArtHistrory student so anything that harks to painting or art movements in anyway I feel instantly attracted to it and in my searching I have been drawn to Prada's SS14 collection and well I love fur jackets. To be honest the whole collection looks like amalgamation of art movements, the bright colours and art deco like fabrications is just stunning, all the greats...Picasso and Andy Warhol would have been proud...maybe. I'm loving those art print fur coats, best thing I've seen in a while...Fashion month is not over though...

To Ra. 

MFW SS14 : Ports 1961

Any designer who includes a limited colour palette is receiving all my love, I adore single colour pieces they look incredibly clean and sophisticated. Ports 1961, MFW SS14 showcase is flawless I want every piece...to be truthful I'm not too keen on the colour pieces but nevertheless I'm loving it. Smart looking pieces, silk fabrication and a philosophy of less is obviously is more. Look below, look at the clothes...the details the crispness of each outfit how the clothes, although lacking the an obvious outline it does have ounces of femininity to each outfit. If the colour palette does not appeal to you, no need to fear colours such as pinks and purples are available. 

Now although there were streaks of sophistication and elegance which every designer seems to be try to achieve, this set of photographs gives me a sense of more obvious femininity, the two-tone trend which is used to highlight the female form. Something I am intrigued by is the yellow sunset jumper...isn't it just stunning, I love it and I love the way it fades into the skirt, I myself would ditch the skirt for a pair of cropped trainers which ankle refinement. The all black outfit, Joan Smalls so dashing pulls off is just modernism combined with elegance, the collarless neck is beautiful I can't pull it of myslef but it is great. For all you pattern freaks the middle outfit *(which reminds me of a pretty carpet) is nice pair it with white trousers and you'll be grand. Yes, Ports 1961 has grabbed my attention and I am glad. 

To Ra. 

MFW SS14 : Max Mara

Head-to-toe single coloured outfits, hit the Italian runway an effortlessly chic austere was presented with the collection from tailored coats to the oversized tee-tucking skirts. When spectating the collection what I admired straight off the bat was the way the clothes hugged the shape of the body, I think that is a very rare aspect on the runway and it's brilliant to see from Max Mara. The colour palette...is hands down perfect I mean they are very mature expect from the splashes of Klein blue to eye-catching oranges, the colours such as the nudes and pearly greys made me melt inside.

 The colour harks back to architectural modernism, like steely buildings, kind of hi-tech we saw in the film I,Robot, the jackets are something I will certainly invest in I mean they look like they have been carved out of fabric by Michelangelo. Due to my personal preference I hated the crayon-like colours, the colours reminded me of traffic lights, I hated them I thought the collection was perfect but I was wrong, oh well I'm going to ignore that mistake. Sophistication was key to the collection and if you follow Max Mara, you will know that this motif is key to Max Mara as a brand.

To Ra. 

LFW SS14 : Meadham Kirchoff

Punk Rock Victorian dolls, this is what the duo pair of Meadham Kirchoff showcased for their SS14 collection, the catwalk was littered with dead red and white roses creating a typical Kirchoff-esque atmosphere. Vampire red and platinum blond tucked away neatly under black bonnets highlights the collection with strong notions of witchcraft and eeriness. Tailored and double breasted jackets in colour palettes of grey, black exhibiting their perfect technical skill which we love so much, the white lace dresses hark back to graveyard playfulness in movies. 

(IMAGES COURTESY OF DAZED AND CONFUSED AND STYLE.COM) 

A notable streak was the Elizabethan homage witnessed in the particular microfloral-embroidered silk satins and corsets. The palette derived from the Elizabethan era as they only wore black, gold, red and white if Elizabeth I was alive today she would be certainly be investing in MK's collection. A certain item which caught my eye and I simply adore was the bat-shaped sunglasses, I really want a pair, the whole collection was stunning and a labour of love was evident...Meadham Kirchoff did it again! 

To Ra.

LFW SS14 : Pam Hogg

So I had the pleasure of see the Pam Hogg SS14 show at Freemasons Hall, all I can say is Punk Pam did it again!! Now, this show was more than just a fashion catwalk...it was pure genius. A combination of quirky headpieces, a cracking soundtrack and a truly theatrical performance, in true Pam Hogg style. Punk Pam exhibited top-notch eccentric creations from angelic ballerinas to graveyard crutches wearing punk dolls, literally a collection with an sensual experience, the viewers went from gasping to being struck by awe.

(ALL IMAGES BY DEBORAH CROSSWIRE) 

Future past: War x Peace showcases what Pam does best with her classic signature of geometric latex body suits and dramatic veiling that is loved by all, classic Hogg trait, there was plenty of shock factor to be seen. The collection presented dirtied military jumpsuits, sparkling war heroines and (my favourite) and delicate feathered and floral headpieces, some where pigeons, grapes, flowers and massive veils. Through the colours and range of fabrics the juxtaposition of War & Peace was fully embodied at this show. A ballerina dressed in full Pam Hogg gear came fluttering down the catwalk to a controversial bride with a black veil and an uneasy crutch.

(IMAGE COURTESY OF TRACY ASSLANIAN)

Originality. Inventive, and truly creative are just a few of the words I would use to describe Pam Hogg's SS14 show.  

To Ra. 

LFW SS14: Basharatyvan V

Basharatyan V SS14 collection "Frida" was showcased at the Freemasons Hall; it was a colourful display of yellows, reds and pearly whites, which was a build-up on AW13's colourful palette. Hugely inspired by Mexican surrealist painter, Frida Kahlo the collection reflects strong traits of her paintings and philosophies.

Unique prints that show the brands growth in confidence and experience was a delight, with bursts of neon green, coral reds and beautiful monochromatic prints.

Veronica Basharatyabn was inspired by the pain and passion in Kahlo's work, her models reflected the statement eyebrows of Kahlo's trademark look. The silhouettes were sultry feminine and yet strong, channelling the fearless Frida, the uncompromising depiction of the female experience and form. 

The first impression of the collection is layers of delectable silk chiffons in a combination of both vivid and pastel colours, intriguing prints with pops of neon bright and zesty lemon/lime embellishments. 

To Ra. 

LFW SS14: Bernard Chandran

I'm a fan of Bernard Chandran, I saw him last season and I love his collection. This season was also a delight  and I got to interview him, which was lovely. Womenswear is usually fully controlled and I don't like the rules that are applied to, nevertheless Chandran pushed the boat out. Inspiration for the collection came from his home land, Malaysia and a mixture of metallics and princesses.

(ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF DEBORAH CROSSWIRE)

The traditional Malay sarongs were of obvious and important inspiration, along with the usage of native silks.  "I wanted to break conventions and give normal girls the chance to become princesses", this is what is done rather well in this collection, traditional dresses of the royal members are being modernised with a urban undertone. Oversized caped sleeves providing strong silhouettes, celebrating the female form in all it's sultriness, this seemed to be a motif throughout the show. An appearance of pinstriped -bandeau jumpsuits assembled with asymmetrical cuts gave the line a futuristic air about it. A radical re-invention of princess-wear and royal uniform is something we are embracing.

To Ra. 

NYFW : Yigal Azrouël SS14

Firstly, I just want to give a high-five to New York, I mean I never assessed New York to be key, groundbreaking or of any relevance, in terms of fashion. This sounds extremely harsh, in my mind New York was living with a stain, the stain of being a "celebrity brand" city, they took no notice of classic tailoring or key trends, all I can say is that....the stigma is no longer attached.

Nevertheless, after Rag and Bone, Jason Wu, Alexander Wang and the many more radiant designers to come I am definitely more observant and considerate towards the  fashion of New York.
Next designer, Yigal Azrouël, this designer has caught my eye and pulled my heart strings (which is not an easy task), the whole collection is flawless. Yigal, is a Israeli American, New York based designer, and I can say, hands down, he is a gift to New York and the rest of the fashion world. I think the colour palette is simple but nevertheless smooth, the tailoring is superb looks immaculate harking and boarding on futuristic...hmm maybe a modernist streak has been applied to this line. Nevertheless, I love it and the strong devotion to art expressed through the monochrome pieces, I love the detail it's slightly playful.

Debs Crosswire 

NYFW: Alexander Wang SS14

Alexander Wang, hit the catwalk with dynamite, I find all his collections irresistible and this collection did not fail to disappoint. Wang's collections are ever consistent, what I think is glorious is how he takes typical masculine traits and transform them into strong feminine wear.  Cropped, Pleats, Laser Cut and Print were some of the trends I saw at Alexander Wang's show, and I loved it. What I ultimately admired about Wang's pieces, were the cuts, one feature I appreciated from the SS14 line was the pleats, whether they were small pleats or big I adored them! Runway sets are very important to me, I love seeing what creativity and variations that a designer can create other than their line, Wang's set was brilliant. A massive white geometric box, with holes so you could see the models clearly, loved it and obviously the playlist was up to par.

The white dress with side pleats in the side panelling was simply divine, perfect for a summer/spring wardrobe, elegance paired with classic tailoring. The accessories, hmmm the shoes were not really to my taste, they looked like shoe boxes, nevertheless the detailing on the front of the shoe of crossed of laces was a nice touch. The bags were celestial, I loved the colour selection, an Alexander Wang bag never ceases to disappoint.

A selection of dresses and jackets came in black airtec combined with pleats, which I think is a mastermind coupling, the airtec prints where laser cut so they immediately make the clothing look simplistic and clean cut. The highlight has to be the mesh jumper with the print of "Parental Advisory" on it, loved it definitely need to get one. Although this collection was stunning and I was not left dissatisfied, I'm afraid I think this collection did not surpass his SS13 collection. 

Debs Crosswire. 

NYFW : Louise Goldin

(IMAGES COURTESY OF STYLE.COM) 

New York City, so far has showcased a dazzling collection of designers from Helmut Lang and their collection of stripped back minimalism to the flower power of the Ruffian collection. The designer who has caught my eye, is designer Louise Goldin, her collection has embraced a stunning combination of sports-luxe and simplicity. I do adore the colour palette of the collection, the use of nude has incorporated really well, the details of collage-like clothing is something I love, the input of art in the collection is liberating.  The outlining of the clothing pieces an exaggeration is brilliant, I'm not a big fan of the other colours I think they are great but I wouldn't wear them, my favourite pieces are the white pieces with the black outlining. I think the shoes and frilly socks are adorable, remind me of Catholic school girls, the socks that is, the heels are not really my thing, but they fit well with the collection. I will certainly be keeping an eye on Ms Louise Goldin. 

To Ra. 

Los Vladimirovich FW13-14

Los Vladimirovich's FW13 campaign is dazzling, I love my jackets I think they are key pieces for outfits, everybody should have that one coat which get's people's eyes raising. This collection is perfect, I love everything about it, slight grungy or rock 'n' roll laced with drops of classic tailoring. Obviously, Cole Mohr is another valid reason why this campaign is awesome, great models with a stunning collection of tattoos which is a kind of accessorie of its own. My favoruite jackets are as follow, the orange jacket I love the grey collaring and the inside, the combination of grey and orange is pretty clever and subdubed. Menswear is chillingly perfect, its not fair, I'm sorry but they look so good in it, ah menswear designers do it so well, watch the video. 

To Ra. 

Words by Deborah Crosswire